- Matthew Schniper
Sit-down location at 3744 Astrozon Blvd., plus food truck, facebook.com/clubtiltgrill
Year-old Club Tilt bills itself as “Colorado’s first Soul Food Sports Bar” and it offers a brick-and-mortar joint on the Southeast side plus a mobile unit, which I find at a food truck rally.
Its whiteboard proves difficult to read with scribblings all over but I’m able to make out catfish as an item of interest, at a not-cheap $17 for a fillet with commercial fries and generic white bread slices — true to what you’d find all over the South.
Head chef Chavez Russell hails from Mississippi and is the brother of Club Tilt’s owner, he tells me; Patty is his mom’s name (and his brother-in-law’s mom’s name, coincidentally), and the eatery’s recipes are his mom’s originally; she still helps out with desserts.
Russell slides a foam box to me that’s so full it won’t close (no complaints about that much food), so I find a seat in some shade and dig in. The fries are nice and crisp and not oil-sogged and neither is the fish, well-breaded and crunchy on the outside and flaky and tender inside. There’s a metallic taste to the meat, which in researching I recall could stem from certain algae and bacteria in water, common to production ponds. A dip in provided ketchup, mustard or tartar sauce mostly covers it up.