Call The Burrowing Owl
what you like, but don’t call it lacking in creativity. The Biddle’s Butters ($7) piles thick and fancy peanut butter — er, spicy peanut sauce — atop Sourdough Boulangerie bread with pickles, jalapeños and lettuce. It’s odd, but it plays. The sour and spicy cut through the heavy PB with greater efficacy than any jelly we’ve had. More conventional, the daily special seitan/lentil meatball sub ($10) comes with a sweet tomato sauce, and while the balls’ taste resembles pleasant whole grains, their chewy exterior leaves something to be desired. For drinks, we dig a Masked Owl ($6), big on ginger with a bright lemon-champagne vinegar tartness, simultaneously warming and cooling. And while I’m a fan of challenging drinks, the Relentless Balter ($5) bowls me over with brutal tartness and underlying bitterness courtesy of balsamic syrup, made all the more powerful by lime and Cimarron tequila. Give the ice ball in this drink a nice, long time to melt before sipping.