- Griffin Swartzell
seitan/lentil meatball sub ($10) comes with a sweet tomato sauce, and while the balls’ taste resembles pleasant whole grains, their chewy exterior leaves something to be desired. For drinks, we dig a Masked Owl ($6), big on ginger with a bright lemon-champagne vinegar tartness, simultaneously warming and cooling. And while I’m a fan of challenging drinks, the Relentless Balter ($5) bowls me over with brutal tartness and underlying bitterness courtesy of balsamic syrup, made all the more powerful by lime and Cimarron tequila. Give the ice ball in this drink a nice, long time to melt before sipping.