- Griffin Swartzell
- New to the menu, the Figgy Piggy is already a best-seller.
The Brewer’s of 2018, owned by Cerberus Brewing Company co-owners/previous Brewer’s operators Tom Halfast, Jerry Morris and Joshua Adamski, plus Cerberus co-owner Cindy Geiser, has a much cleaner feel than the taproom did in years previous: The front doors are no longer plastered with beer stickers, the I-beams along the ceiling are no longer lined with choice bottles, and a palette swap to light blues makes the big-windowed space feel all the more breezy, especially at new lunch, which on multiple visits is dead quiet. And while the iconic forest of tap handles above the bar was clear-cut before renovations, it’s growing back as more beers arrive.
Speaking of which, the selection’s as good as it ever was. We start with a Todd the Axe Man IPA from Minneapolis, Minnesota’s Surly — it’s a hoppy, slightly sticky West Coast IPA. Odell Brewing Company’s Flemish Giant, a sour red ale of the style developed in Belgium, maintains its nutty malt character over a restrained lactic tang. We also see representations from Cerberus (no surprise), New York’s Brewery Ommegang, California’s Lost Abbey Brewing Company, and New York/Denmark-based Evil Twin Brewing.
We indulge in a half-pint of Evil Twin’s imperial biscotti break, a massive imperial stout brewed with coffee, vanilla and almonds — it’s not dessert sweet, but at 11.5 percent ABV, it’s some kind of meal.
Location Details Brewer's Republic
The fantastic potato wedges from Cerberus also appear here, as a side for sandwiches or an app with rosemary and Parmesan, truffle oil optional.
For a healthier option, try the rich and savory roasted carrot hummus, topped with lovely pickled peppers and radish for an optional spice, and served with pita triangles we wish were soft instead of cracker-crisp.
Sandwiches also do good — the vegetarian veggie focaccia roll comes way heavier than expected, but that’s not a bad thing. The herbaceous bread does fine with intense, earthy oyster mushroom tapenade, Kalamata olives and artichoke hearts, plus a thick disc of mozzarella.
Omnivores will dig the sloppy housemade Italian sausage sub, featuring balls of house Italian sausage packing savory fennel-onion-pepper punch. It tends to fall apart, but that’s nothing a little fork and knife work can’t address. It’s edifying to see that, at long last, the food at Brewer’s is on par with the beer.