Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Boxing Brothers Ciderhouse leans sweet, with full flavors

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GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell

Boxing Brothers Ciderhouse, 4655 Town Center Drive, #130, 301-5645, boxingbrotherscider.com

Formerly known as Colorado Common, this cidery underwent a renovation and name change in spring of 2019, in tribute to founder/co-owner Matt Bonno’s grandfather. We dropped by for a beverage and can confirm that the space looks great, especially thanks to a decorative wall made from used whiskey barrel staves.

We’re less enthusiastic about the cider itself. Flagship English-style dry cider, Bulldog, bears a strong, true-to-fruit flavor with a dry finish, but we find it on the sweet side. Ginger and elderflower cider, also a flagship, bears pleasant ginger on the nose and faint finishing bite, but it’s even more sugary than Bulldog. The menu claims the third and final flagship American Apple tastes like red apple, which tracks, and there’s good tartness — but, again, it’s too sweet.

Seasonals follow the same pattern: Spiced pumpkin hits nutmeg and cinnamon notes with too much sugar; tangerine honey has a good citrus nose, but it leaves our teeth feeling like we’ve been drinking soda; and the Earl Grey Lavender’s flavors read loud and clear, but it’s the most aggressively sweetened brew we sample. Those who like their cider sweet will find lots to love: We taste no off brewing flavors, and every cider conveys its concept clearly. But when we drive away after a half-finished tasting flight with a sugar headache, we know for certain this ain’t for us.



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