- Matthew Schniper
I get into a pretty sticky situation at Border Burger Bar. No, literally. I go to sit at the bar and the floor is so sticky it nearly sucks my flip-flop off my foot. An employee, off the clock, says something about a drink spilling there earlier. Apparently someone didn’t bring their A-game to the mop job.
Oh well, now I’m seated and I have a can of Rockyard Brewing Co.’s Orange Moon Rising in my hand; it’s a Belgian wit with awesome label art (of a female astronaut looking like she’s staring into the void), brewed with oats and lots of blood oranges post-ferment, sipping less citrusy than I expect but faintly sweet and overall pleasant.
This location expanded from Manitou Springs which expanded from El Paso, Texas, and the owners have just opened a Poke Bop location, also Texas-born, next door. I’m told The Coloradoan remains the best-selling burger here. I’m not sure why after it fails to impress, the highlighted green chile basically being mute, with Swiss and avocado lending creamy texture but also little meaningful flavor. White onion garnish speaks up a bit, but even lemon aioli’s zestiness is mostly buried behind what I’m told is Korean seasoning in the patty (gochujang I’m guessing), which barely holds onto a requested medium temperature like we all struggle to retain youthfulness (I mean, yeah, I can see a tiny bit of pinkness). That would be a nice spicing touch had I ordered The Korean kimchi burger, which I strongly considered, but here the flavor distracts from the presumed Centennial State focus.
I do like the bun, I’m told a sourdough made at TILL with potato flour. But side truffle fries don’t finish strong: fryer oil-logged and soggy and largely limp, the grated Parmesan and truffle essence the only redeeming qualities.