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Best of Food and Drink: Vital Vittles

Best Eggs Over Easy

Western Omelette
16 S. Walnut St., 636-2286

A diner, as far as I'm concerned, is measured by how quickly, and how perfectly, it serves up eggs over easy. It's all in the timing. The whites must be firm but not crisp, while the yellow remains a smooth and creamy sauce that runs through the canyons of a well-buttered slab of whole-wheat toast. Yet one cannot fuss, hover or worry about the eggs -- lest, they would not be easy. They must be prepared with abandon, with a daring lack of concern for the possibility of human error. There's some good EOE in this town (Milt's Coffee Shop on Platte Avenue, for example) but to me the best are from Western Omelette, just over the Colorado Avenue bridge from downtown on Walnut Street. These folks serve up 100 to 150 meals an hour, and they always get it right. It makes me want to cry. I love you all, from the bottom of my heart. (MH)

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