- Matthew Schniper
I start with a single Salvadoran pupusa ($2.50), a thick masa tortilla stuffed with a little chicharrón and cheese, which aren’t prominent flavors once it’s topped with a creamy slaw and pickled onions and dipped in a mild tomato consommé of sorts; still it satisfies. Next comes the pollo con tajadas ($11) a quarter-chicken of meat offered light or dark (which I get), fried nicely crisp over a big bed of more slaw and pickled onions, then a thick layer of fried plantains. A piquant and creamy tomatillo-cilantro sauce in another ramekin tastes fabulous over the chicken, having a cooling, fresh effect like tzatziki in Middle Eastern fare. My only gripe is the plantain chips get mushy and should instead be served on the side.