- Griffin Swartzell
- All Star Pizzeria's pickle ranch pizza.
We go for a house special we’ve never seen before: the pickle ranch pizza ($22.99/20-inch), which features ranch instead of red sauce, diced white onions, bacon, ground beef and pickles. While we doubt it’ll be the Taste Sensation Sweeping the Nation, it’s good, with pickle and ranch tang replacing red sauce acidity. The bacon’s overdone, unfortunately, and the pink centers in the bigger ground beef chunks on ours suggest they’re only cooked in the oven, a problem when the size varies as much as it does. Their crust also disappoints; it’s too dense, lacking the more complex structure that makes good pizza dough light and delicious. Still, it’s a wholly serviceable neighborhood pizzeria.