- Matthew Schniper
4494 Austin Bluffs Pkwy., 719-534-9412
Long-standing Albertacos usually runs 24 hours a day, according to signage on the building that’s so old it’s sun-faded. But COVID-19 has meant service closure between 2 a.m. and 6:40 a.m., with drive-thru only and no on-site seating, plus Grubhub and DoorDash delivery. So that covers lunch and dinner on the go, late-night drunk food and breakfast burrito hangover food.
Tasted blind, they’d be difficult to sort out from handfuls of other Mexican spots in town, which is to say they’re serviceable and unremarkable. Though I was curious enough to weigh my chile relleno plate to-go box on my coffee scale when I got home because it felt like SO MUCH food I had to know: 2 pounds, 13.6 ounces of gut-bomb goodness for a super fair $8.99, which includes four corn or flour tortillas.
A soft mushiness summarizes the prevailing texture between runny sour cream, loose guacamole, gooey cheese both on top and of course filling the poblano peppers, and a wet, eggy batter encapsulating those chiles. Plus I pour full ramekins of watery chile verde and rojo over it all, some of which gets soaked up by basic Mexican rice and pale refried beans. I’m not unhappy, I’m quite full, I loathe myself a little.