- Griffin Swartzell
This food truck turned brick-and-mortar has its marketing down. While we wait for our steak kabob sandwich, we watch a TV showing kitchen shots and ultra-corny ads for fusion offerings like a green chile gyro, which we’ve also ordered. The former bears cubes of steak with saffron rice, while sumac, cumin and turmeric flavors sing through lettuce, tomato and tzatziki.
There isn’t much grill-char flavor, but that disappoints less, as the flavors are so strong as is. The green chile gyro’s meat gets carved from a vertical spit and griddled with a measure of green chile stew, infusing the flavors for a good, if salty, flavor. The chile itself has a lovely acidity and slow, rising burn that lingers. Cheddar cheese shreds and tzatziki cool each bite.