Goat Patch Brewing Co. brewer Darren Baze revives Pappy Legba cult-favorite


  • Griffin Swartzell
Before opening Goat Patch Brewing Company, head brewer/co-owner Darren Baze spent time brewing at Trinity Brewing. That's where he, in 2009, helped develop an imperial saison brewed with a huge amount of cherries — a pound per gallon. They named it Pappy Legba, for the Talking Heads song Papa Legba.

“Over at Trinity, they like naming their beers after different songs," says Goat Patch general manager Johannah Murphy, also formerly of Trinity. “The Talking Heads was on the iPad most of the time.”

And when Baze opened Goat Patch, Trinity owner/head brewer Jason Yester, the saison man himself, did a super-chill thing and transferred the copyright and the recipe to Baze. It took a little while for everything to line up on the legal side, but in the end, Baze had the right to brew the cult-favorite beer at his new establishment, and all was right with the world.

And on Thursday, March 15, Goat Patch re-released Pappy Legba into the public, available on tap or in 750 mL bottles. Over the years, the recipe changed somewhat, but this new version is true to the original beer, made in 2009.

“The excitement of it being brought back to its original recipe [was part of the appeal],” says Murphy. “People like to hear about people working together and making things together.”

So I bought a bottle — $23, all told. And this beer is a lot. The mouthfeel's massive, almost solid. But it's not syrupy or fruity, either. I can't find a better word for it than huge, and I certainly haven't had anything quite like it. The saison yeast's prominent, adding a little spice on the nose and sip, plus a prickly, refreshing clean finish. This beer is truly an experience, one that should not be missed.

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