Colorado Native imperial porter
AC Golden made a quality sour ale.
Once again, MillerCoors' experimental arm AC Golden Brewing Company
has sent us a few sample bottles of their new wares. This time, we received Colorado Native Peche
, a sour golden beer aged in oak wine barrels with peaches, and Colorado Native imperial porter
Seeing a beer from an AC Golden brand sporting a 9.5 percent ABV came as a bit of a shock, but that's what we got in the imperial porter. For the style, it's pretty light in color, pouring reddish brown with an espresso crema-colored foam. It sips smooth and roasty, with some coffee notes, hiding the alcohol beautifully. It's a blend between fresh-fermented porter and a batch aged six months in AD Laws whiskey barrels, which adds a little complexity, as does mild smokiness from smoked wheat. There's a crispness or thinness that I'm not 100 percent behind, though, coming from the fact that it's brewed as a lager as well as a lot of wheat. Still, this is far and away the best thing we've had from Colorado Native.
We're happy enough with Peche, as well. It has a punchy, sharp tartness that mellows into a mild peach flavor with some oak taste on the backend. With a well-handled 7 percent ABV, it's comparable to quite a few other sours on the market. Really, the most notable thing about this beer is that the folks behind Coors have brewed an competent sour beer, at the worst. Given the choice, I'll drink Paradox or Trinity brews first, but this isn't a bad brew at all.
It's surprising that we're getting well-made, interesting brews from one of the macrobrew companies that remains the Great Enemy of the local-centric craft brewing movement. But I guess it's true that a rising tide lifts all boats.
In any case, we'll continue to review whatever beer shows up in the mail. Cheers!