Huge beers for breakfast at Brewer's Republic


Brewer's Republic hosted a five-course Breakfast for Dinner this past Saturday night, with guest breweries Red Leg, New Belgium, Evil Twin, Stone and New Holland

Note the immediate difference from many beer dinners out there, where one brewery will pair with an eatery for an evening to spotlight their own goods — this is more like a highlight reel. And specifically a highlight reel of high-ABV dark beers that generally played the roasted role of coffee at breakfast. (Yes, I too have pondered just drinking a stout in the morning instead of a coffee, despite the whole unprofessional-before-work thing.)

The brews absolutely stood out, but chef Thomas Walls displayed some terrific pairings throughout, basically batting three for three on the openers. To get real critical though, I immediately questioned a decision to move into a sweet course third, back to a savory fourth and back to sweet as a finish — I kept an open mind but in the end felt it just didn't work out. A friend did posit a fun theory though, saying the third course was really dessert, which makes the fourth late-night drunk food, then the final a morning breakfast again: fun and clever, but still an excuse to explain the odd bounce-around for the palate. 

Here's a few more thoughts, and a look at it all:

Sellin' it with sexy descriptions. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • Sellin' it with sexy descriptions.

Red Leg started strong with its World Beer Cup-winning, 7.1 percent ABV Devil Dog Stout paired with a texturally spot-on puff pastry and Hollandaise Sauce. 

Course one: Eggs Florentine. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • Course one: Eggs Florentine.

New Belgium's 9 percent ABV Salted Belgian Chocolate Stout played beautifully with a pork demi-glace and salt and herb notes in Walls' excellent house-made sausage breaded in a sweet potato hash.

Course two: Sausage enRosti. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • Course two: Sausage enRosti.

Brewer's Republic and the Underground's accommodating staff serving up the dark good stuff. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • Brewer's Republic and the Underground's accommodating staff serving up the dark good stuff.

The 11.5 percent ABV Evil Twin Imperial Biscotti Break matched cherry elements to a dark cherry compote over nutmeg crepes stuffed with complementing espresso mousse. 

Course three: espresso crepes. - MATTHEW SCHNIPER
  • Matthew Schniper
  • Course three: espresso crepes.

Last up and not pictured, Stone's collaborative, 9.6 percent ABV Suede Imperial Porter burst with interesting floral notes from avocado-blossom honey, calendula and jasmine inputs. It would have paired brilliantly in my mind with sopapillas for a double-down on honey notes with cinnamon added to the mix, while still staying in the corn tortilla realm of the huevos rancheros that were instead served. 

The final dessert's citrus agave syrup was delicious with New Holland's superb, 11 percent ABV Dragon's Milk bourbon-barrel-aged imperial stout. But beignets lacked airiness and loft with more of a pretzel density and not quite enough Citron custard injected to enliven the innards.  

Still, for a $45 seat, otherwise well-crafted eats and overall phenomenal big-boy beers (holy morning headache ...) Brewer's Republic makes a strong case for its beer dinner series. Catch one soon. And don't think of the spot as just for drinking — clearly.

If you wish to try the beers mentioned above, as of Saturday all remained on tap upstairs — but I'd venture in quickly to make sure you can nab a snifter. 

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