A sample of City O' City



Before Sunday's night's excellent Manchester Orchestra show at Denver's Summit Music Hall, I checked out City O' City for a quick dinner.

The über-hipster vegan/vegetarian eatery/bar, which is soon to expand into an adjacent space, came recommended by several Springs and Denver friends.

It's a cool space (like Shuga's plus an ironic mustache and cowboy shirt times three) with a bathroom that's as scary as a concert hall's, but it has a friendly staff that kicks out a pretty creative menu in terms of making tofu, seitan and tempeh appealing to the masses.

On the drink side, I went with the $6.50 house version of a Moscow Mule: Peach Street Distillers' Goat Vodka, fresh lime juice and Oogave ginger ale served in a copper cup with a ginger sliver and lime garnish.

It's refreshing, sweet and nowhere near stiff; I couldn't taste the vodka at all.

On the food side, I took our bartender's recommendation and went with the Urban Cowgirl 10-inch pizza with a mild chipotle marinara, pineapple, green peppers, cilantro, onion rings and mozzarella.

I really liked the thin, organic-flour crust and contrast between the sweet fruit and greasy, sharp onions and the cilantro makes for a great pizza garnish. Pretty fun overall.

City O' City obviously isn't for any of your whiny friends who seemingly can't go without meat for a single meal, but it's appealing to average eaters beyond the crunchy crowd. One of my omnivorous co-diners was all about his Sherman sandwich of Carolina dry-rubbed barbecue tofu. And the pastry case looked awesome, though I didn't save room to sample anything.

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