Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Whistle Pig heads in the right direction

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GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell

When we first reviewed Whistle Pig last year, we found very little to be pleased with and, indeed, some truly terrible beer. But the reason we critique dining experiences is not just as a means of helping readers better spend their dollars. We also love to see eateries fine-tune what’s coming out of their kitchens — and, in the case of Whistle Pig, their taps. We revisit the smoked burger ($10.95), which now comes with a few topping options. We go for Swiss and mushrooms, opting for house bacon mayo over barbecue sauce. The patty’s juicy enough, and though there’s not much flavor in the meat, the mushrooms help.

As for the beer, things have improved substantially. Whistle Piss ($5.25/pint) has turned from a pils into a cream ale, and the results aren’t bad. It’s textbook, if light on noble hop spice (though we still frown at whatever whiz kid named this brew). While the red ale ($5.25/pint) sips easy enough, it’s both too thin and far too dark and toasty for the style — thoroughly wrong, but not bad. While there’s a lot of growing yet to be done, it’s clear that Whistle Pig has improved, at least somewhat.

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