The Flow of Mexico has thus far held its ground in a spot that's spurned other Mexican outfits. Why? Because owner and chef Jose "Chelis" Luis Flores is a badass with 35 years' culinary experience. His is no mediocre Tex-Mex. Where others are greasy and heavy, Flow is crisp, fresh and somehow lighter. Try the excellent and chocolatey mole de pollo or get the ceviche de pescado y camarón or campechana: giant goblets of mixed seafood bearing refreshing citrus broths, cilantro, tomatoes and a touch of jalapeño heat.