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Panda House curry is better than you may think

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GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell

Formerly a New Panda location, Panda House opened under new ownership in November, our server tells us, though he can field few other queries we have about the eatery, including whether the numerous Thai offerings were on the previous menu. No big matter, because all we really need to know we find out upon forking into the tofu green curry and mango chicken, each $7.95 at lunch, which includes a decent egg roll (vegan, the menu notes), cream cheese wonton and cup of soup. Both our hot-and-sour and wonton soups are good, the first more thin than goopy versions, and well seasoned, and the wonton bearing big ginger bite with the pork stuffing in a pleasantly salty broth.

Surprisingly, the mango chicken doesn’t head overly sweet or sticky, showing a restrained fruitiness, with a good char on the meat, medium spiciness, and ample crisp veggies in a dark red sauce. We’re especially impressed by the curry, better than most local Thai stops in its execution — fragrant and floral, with big jalapeño cuts contributing to a pleasant burn (even with no heat level offered at ordering).

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