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MillerCoors-owned Colorado Native saison intrigues

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Colorado Native Saison, the latest from MillerCoors-owned AC Golden Brewing Co., pours clear as a summer sky. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Colorado Native Saison, the latest from MillerCoors-owned AC Golden Brewing Co., pours clear as a summer sky.
Macrobrewery MillerCoors' experimental arm AC Golden Brewing Company has, once more, sent us a sample of their upcoming seasonal brew. This time, it's a saison, brewed to 5.35 percent ABV. For the nose, there's a decidedly Belgian yeast profile, fruity with clove and pepper spice notes. On sip, the yeast leads once more, again presenting clove and, less, pepper. There's a fruitiness here, too, and the press release we receive with the beer suggests notes of circus peanut — artificial banana. That's right on the money and sounds more like a hefeweizen than a saison. No surprise there's wheat in the grain bill, typical for a hefeweizen. Notably, there's no major funk or claimed tartness present.

This brew expresses the yeast profile and basically nothing else. From appearances alone, it could easily be mistaken for a light lager. The press release says it's unfiltered, but if that's so, they're using every other clarifying trick in the book several times over, because this pours gin-clear. Still, all told, it's a drinkable beer that isolates what brew aficionados mean when they talk about yeast character. In that, there's value.

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