Food & Drink » Dining Reviews

Creekside Cuisine has balls

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Creekside's Matador burger. - GRIFFIN SWARTZELL
  • Griffin Swartzell
  • Creekside's Matador burger.
Cutesy euphemisms like Rocky Mountain oysters or bull fries — the preferred nom de guerre on Creekside’s menu — feel like a taunt. We know the pounded-flat, fried meat strips this restaurant proffers are the testicles of a bull. It’s no secret. But for the shy, the chicken strip appearance and mild flavor should mark an easy entry point for the curious.

They’re mellowed further atop a big, messy Matador burger ($13.95). When it’s not trying to escape the bun, mine satisfies any meat cravings well enough, though the red pepper aioli and ghost pepper jack don’t add much pepper flavor — or heat, in the case of the cheese. The price point stings, though. I’d like to wash it down with one of their exclusive Red Leg beers, but they’ve left the menu. Word from Red Leg is that the partnership ended in mid-2016, the brewery electing to focus on brewing for distribution.

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