A taste of the wines of San Felice

by

comment

An incredible apéritif featuring housemade limoncello, cranberry and (likely) unicorn tears, garnished with a lemon peel.
  • Bryce Crawford
  • An incredible apéritif featuring housemade limoncello, cranberry and (likely) unicorn tears, garnished with a lemon peel.

Last Sunday Monday night, Summit at The Broadmoor was the spot to find Italian oenophile Paolo Boselli introducing the subtle wines of San Felice.

"So, from my accent you can understand that I make a tremendous effort to speak with a strong Italian accent," the elderly Boselli joked — in, indeed, heavily accented English — during an opening introduction.

"San Felice is a beautiful resort. Let me introduce to you a few basic points that I like to stress, that I like to underline," Boselli said, flipping through a slide show. "Just to give you an idea, you can see there where is Tuscany — we are in central Italy. We are in Tuscany, and Tuscany is a magic place. If you were not in Tuscany, I can tell you one thing: You didn’t live yet. So, please go to Tuscany in order to have an experience of what is life, OK?"

From a menu from the brilliant Bertrand Bouquin featuring squid ink gnocchi and halibut poached in black olive oil, diners sampled glasses of an '09 Vermentino, an '06 Chianti Classico Riserva, an '05 Brunello di Montalcino, an '06 Vigorello and a dried-apricot-like dessert '04 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico. To my palate, the interesting thing about all the wines was they seemed very simple, very straightforward. I didn't taste layers of rolling flavor; more, one bold taste, or even the lack of one — a quiet, almost clean and water-like, wine — seemed to carry each vintage.

See below for more pictures and menu descriptions.

Squid ink gnocchi with calamari, edamame, enoki mushrooms and chicken jus.
  • Bryce Crawford
  • Squid ink gnocchi with calamari, edamame, enoki mushrooms and chicken jus.

A perfectly balanced dish, and the highlight of the night: Halibut poached in housemade black olive oil with Thumbelina carrots and fingerling potatoes in a sour beurre blanc.
  • Bryce Crawford
  • A perfectly balanced dish, and the highlight of the night: Halibut poached in house-made black olive oil with Thumbelina carrots and fingerling potatoes in a sour beurre blanc.

Braised beef short ribs with Italian red wine, parsley mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe.
  • Bryce Crawford
  • Braised beef short ribs with Italian red wine, parsley mashed potatoes and broccoli rabe.

Incredibly tender roasted venison with a cocoa nib crust, parsnips, an addictive vanilla purée and — in a bold move for its ubiquitousness — braised celery.
  • Bryce Crawford
  • Incredibly tender roasted venison with a cocoa nib crust, parsnips, an addictive vanilla purée and, boldly, braised celery.

A quiet and delightful almond pound cake spiked with cardamom with roasted pear sorbet and vanilla milk chocolate cream.
  • Bryce Crawford
  • A quiet and delightful almond pound cake spiked with cardamom with roasted pear sorbet and vanilla milk chocolate cream.

Add a comment

Clicky Quantcast