Best of Food and Drink: Vital Vittles

Best Sweet Potato Pie

Not Carol's Beans and Things
2220 Academy Place, 573-1727

Whether or not you like blueberry pie is directly related to whether or not you like blueberries. Such is not the case with sweet potato pie. You might not like your sweet potatoes baked with butter melting into them, french-fried, curried with lamb or baked with brown sugar and marshmallows. None of that has the slightest to do with your like or dislike of sweet potato pie. Sweet potato pie, done right, is so much more than the sum of all its parts that it becomes another substance altogether. What makes this sweet potato pie so superlative? It is satisfyingly sweet without being cloying. It is moist and dense and flavorful, rather than rich. Each bite tastes better than the last. It is simple perfection without needing adornment or additives, but it would stand up well to a swirl of whipped cream or a scoop of premium vanilla ice cream. The highest praise I can give it? It's almost better than chocolate. (MBP)

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